Last month's article made the case for the culturally flavorful and deliciously tropical eastern portion of the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe . But many would argue that the western, mountainous side is even more interesting for the adventurous traveler.

Paradoxically dubbed Basse Terre (low land), the main attraction of this section of the island is the mountain range that stretches down to the southern tip, filled with spectacular waterfalls and sporting a volcano that thrusts 4,000 feet from sea level. It is also home to spectacular beaches and restaurants.

Although it is frequently wet or cloud-covered, the track up the volcanic La Soufriere (which translates as “Sulphur Mine”) is well-marked and can afford breathtaking views of red-roofed towns, sparkling water and verdant neighboring islands. The walk actually encircles the mountain, bringing you in and out of rain-forest like habitat. Below you the green mountain ripples to the sea; above you, glimpses of the summit encourage your forward progress. Much of the walk can be comfortably accomplished by any reasonably fit individual, although the last ascent is something of a scramble.

At the top, the enterprising French have installed solar-powered lights to guide you through frequent fog to the sulphur-scented summit. Often shrouded in clouds and eerily silent, this last, fairly level stage is a spooky reminder of the power of nature.

Both of these attractions are reached through the historic city of Vieux Fort (Old Fort) ( www.webcaribes.com/guadeloupe/vieux_fort/ ) where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea . You can dine ocean-side, tour the lighthouse and walk around the ruins of the fort, a now-peaceful reminder of battles between colonial powers that caused Guadeloupe to change hands from France to Britain and back again.

While French tourists seem to think nothing of making the 4- to 5-hour round trip in sandals, I recommend hiking boots and at least one water bottle. Layered clothing is also wise; the windy peak is a good 20 degrees cooler than the sunny parking lot.

A less challenging experience is the walk to the three Chutes de Carbet, impressive waterfalls that tumble down sheer but leafy mountainsides. The first is the easiest to reach, but the hike to the second and third rewards the visitor with successively more stunning views ending in cool pools for swimming. The roaring falls, at the bottom cloudy with spray, are a sight not quickly forgotten (for information on tours, www.antilles-info-tourisme.com/guadeloupe/traces.htm ).

 Driving north from Vieux Fort along the coast brings you to one spectacular vista after another, such as the bay at Bouillante, where the mountains unfold directly down to the beach. The Jacques Cousteau reserve surrounds the tiny Ilets Pigeons ( Pigeon Islands ), where underwater fishing is prohibited and scuba diving is available through several companies. Chez Guy et Christian, for one, gives you a decent-sized boat and the chance to see unusually large and beautiful fish, protected by the legacy of the famous French diver. The islands provide built-in nooks and crannies for fish and lobsters, so dives typically hover at 35-40 feet, where the sunlight through the clear water brings out the

brilliance of the shifting colors.

 This part of the island is also dotted with restaurants possessing lovely views, such as Le Rocher du Malendure ( www.rocher-de-malendure.gp/ ). Perched on a rock overlooking the Cousteau reserve and famed for its seafood cuisine, it is also a hotel with bungalows and a tropical garden. On a recent visit, unfortunately, the restaurant was closed due to construction.

Basse Terre is the place to watch the sunset from any of a number of curved, peaceful beaches. My favorite is Plage de la Grande Anse, a perfect half-moon of yellow sand where visitors routinely sit peacefully to enjoy the gentle sinking of the sun into the warm tropical waters. Perhaps more interesting, however, is Pointe Noir (Black Point), whose unusual dark sand is used in many sand paintings that are sold at open-air markets.

 You can end your day with an aperitif at any of an array of sidewalk cafes around the Pointe-a-Pitre's central square, the Place de la Victoire (you'll also want to return during the day to shop in its many lively stores). Sizzling and delicious accras, hot balls of fried fish-paste, along with a colorful planter's punch, a mix of local fruit juice and rum, are a tropical way to bring your adventures to a close. Happy Traveling!

photos: bouillante.jpg; grande_anse.jpg; vieux_fort.jpg; rainforest.jpg; soufriere.jpg